We woke up in Dixie’s camper after a comfortable nights sleep. We started to pack our things and make breakfast. As we were packing up Dixie came out and offered us some homemade muffins. She then invited us into her home for some coffee and she gave us some more water. We knew we had a very big day ahead so the water and muffins were very welcome. Once we set off we got chatting about the generosity and trust of the people we have met in these very quiet areas we have travelled through. You would imagine that because they don’t see that many strangers they would be more cautious, I suppose they are naturally trusting because they have not been let down by anyone like people are in the towns and cities and the horrible news stories we read everyday. They are living in communities where you rely on each other so it is natural for them to help whenever they can.
Yesterday we got to Brookmere and we just had this final stretch to do from Brookmere to Hope. I sought advice from the visitors centre in Princeton and Hope and was told that the trail was fine once you get near Highway 5 or to go down Highway 5. Some highways are not too bad with low traffic and very wide shoulders. Sometimes a shoulder can be as wide as the actual car lanes. But to avoid the highway we tried the trail once more as we were high in the mountains our thinking was that it would not have been subjected to flood damage. We were wrong and it was washed out.
So we made our way to Highway 5. This was going to be helmet on and keep your wits about you. Get your head down and pedal. It was going to be sixty miles of that. We got onto Highway 5 and it was not a highway with either wide shoulders or low traffic. In places it was a three lane highway with a shoulder that was about the width of our handlebars and a speed limit of 120 km/h (75 mph). Basically it was like riding on the M62 with no hard shoulder. Every time the opportunity came up to take an exit and try the trail we took it, but it eventually came to a washed out dead end. The flood must of been crazy as they are still repairing main roads and bridges and this was a flood that happened three years ago.
If you are reading this because you are thinking of doing The BC Trail I will tell you this start or end your journey in Princeton. There are only two ways out of Hope and that is Highway 3 or Highway 5 and take my experience, there are no good sections of trail or bypasses. It is a shame that there is not an organisation that will push to raise funds to get that section back up and running as it would have been a very beautiful part of the ride. I think on the tourism side of things though they need to change there maps of the trail as they are all still starting or ending the trail in Hope. The staff in the visitor centres need to be aware that there is no trail left at all.
Anyway back to Highway 5. A long 60 odd miles left to do. Trucks, cars, RV’s blasting past, no places to pull in and rest, just ride. Dixie did say that one of her friends works at the only place to buy something at Britton Creek which is 25 miles from Hope it was also another opportunity to try the trail again. When got to the stop, got some food and drink and asked their advice about the trail. He already knew we were doing the trail by the look of us and he was angry that more was not being done to highlight that this section was washed out. He told us that we would not be able to join the trail here and gave us the news we were dreading, another 25 miles on Highway 5. He did say that on the plus side, another 5 miles and it would be down hill.
We rode another 5 miles and there was a pull in rest stop and I spotted a pick up truck. I rode along side him and asked if he was going to Hope. He said yes so my next question was can I through my bike in the back of truck. With a second or two of hesitation he said yes. When we were in his truck he offered us water and we started chatting. His name was James and he had been working away for three weeks to help get the trains running from that had been stationary when Jasper got evacuated. He was 55 years old and retired but they asked this favour of him so he stepped up to help. We said that he looked too young to retire and he said Canadians have a saying Free at Fifty Five. So there you go. That is another reason why everyone looks so fit and healthy. We have met so many retired folk blasting over hills on their mountain bikes or kayaking through gorges or fishing in lakes. There is a better life out there you have got to chase it because it won’t find you and in your final hours you don’t want to have regrets.
Anyway. James was a lovely guy and he dropped us off after Hope in his hometown which would have been our route. This was perfect as the next day we just had thirty miles to ride to Vancouver and decide what we wanted to do with our time. We do not need to be in Vancouver until the 20th where we have a hotel booked until the 23rd to give us time to get boxes sorted out for the bike etc.
The ride into Vancouver took in our independent coffee shop stop for breakfast.
At Ospray Lake we got talking to a couple and we mentioned that with any time we make up we might go to Vancouver Island. They advised us that with us only having a few days we might be short on time to venture much further than Victoria so they suggested going around the Islands that make up the archipelago. There are hundreds of Islands of which Vancouver Island is one of them. The others are a lot smaller and each one has a charm of its own. For example Salt Spring Island it states is best for arts, crafts and foods. Some others are best for sandy beaches and one has a daily pass of whales at its tip.
If you want to know more about the Islands you can read about them here:
https://www.hellobc.com/places-to-go/gulf-islands/
We decided to start off at Salt Spring Island. This is a ferry ride from south Vancouver it set off at about 1340 and got us to Salt Spring Island at 1530. The ferry had a lot of foot passengers and people on bicycles which was a good sign.
The weather was amazing and the ferry ride had the best views you could ever imagine. I took my place on some seats at the front of the ferry. Closed my eyes and felt the sun warm my face.
We found a campsite and could not believe it was all done using an honesty box where people deposited cash or card details in a box that could be taken off the wall by a two year old. Also, the box was situated in a beautiful art shop with high value goods. The door was just open and you walked right in with no one else around. I LOVE IT. Why can’t everything be like this anymore!
The campsite is lovely it has private outdoor showers and the pit toilets are nicer than some fully plumbed indoor toilets.
Last night we went into town a two minute bike ride we got fish and chips at the marina. We had a little tootle around the town. We looked over into the water and saw crabs scurrying around and large starfish.
We had a nice shower and got in our tent. There was not a single noise all night. Surprisingly given that we are in a forest there are no flying insects that like to bite you so it is very relaxing.
It is 0731 in the morning. Today I think the plan is to get some food and cycle three miles to a nice beach.
After chatting to two other locals that have experience of cycling the Islands we might stop here for two nights and spend two nights each on two other Islands.