This has been the craziest most amazing day. So many good omens and meetings to bring this trip towards an end and bring it full circle. You will see what I mean as you read on.
We were heading to Saturna Island today because of some top class advice we got off two bikepacking teachers that were camped next to us on Salt Spring Island. Chris and Eric, they were taking a short break over a few of the Islands but I got the impression that Chris has been to the Islands many times over the years as he knew a lot about them and what each island was like to cycle around.
We were undecided between Saturna, Pender and Galiano. We did have time to go to them all, but we just wanted to find a quiet one and chill.
We got up early and on the way out of the campsite Rachael left the bear spray and the air horn on a shelf that looked like it had donations from other campers. It was a momentous occasion and Rachael was sad to let go of the canisters that had been glued to her for four weeks. We got to “our” bakery for 0800. Again we over ordered, but the delights were too nice to hold back. Honestly, I could have stopped for a few hours to drink their nice coffee and try everything!
We were aiming to get the 1100 ferry to Victoria to then get the 1530 ferry to Saturna. In the end we managed to get an earlier ferry to Victoria at 0930. This was not bad going because we got to the island in on at the ferry port on the north of the island and we had to cycle ten mile to get the ferry from the south of the island. On the way we saw our daily deers. During our trip there was certain wildlife that we generally saw every hour, that was deers and chipmunks. On the islands we don’t see chipmunks anymore which is a bit sad as they are so cute.
On the early morning ferry it was looking like the sun was taking its time to get out of bed.
Waiting for the ferry to Saturna to arrive is when fate started to show itself. We were sat there at the port when thirty plus bikepacking riders arrived. One of the guys Kelton, started handing out doughnuts, us included, we did state that we were not part of the group, but it did not matter to this friendly bunch and told us to dive in. When I saw Kelton ride into the port I instantly thought I know this guy from somewhere. Whilst we were tucking into our doughnuts we were chatting and he said that he had done our same route, then it hit me. When I had decided our route I was researching YouTube for people that had done either the Tour Divide route or the BC Trail. Whilst doing that I found Kelton’s resources and he had done the exact same route and I had been using Kelton’s videos and resources as research for our ride. He said that their group The Vancouver Island Bikepacking Collective are stopping on the same Island and to top it off this year’s winner of the Tour Divide female race, Meaghan Hackinen, is joining them for the trip.
By the time the ferry came to take us to Saturna the sun had come out to play.
We made our way to the camp spot on the tip of the island. It was a good feeling riding and chatting with group members. At the camping spot it was just us, the bikepacking group and another couple. It is a gorgeous area, in the middle of nowhere. It has a pit toilet but you have to take your own water. A honesty box to register your camping. After we had put up our tent Kelton told us about the ideal spot for a swim. A cove just around the corner. Hidden to us by the trees. I did not need to be told twice so we got the tent up and joined some of the group in the cove for a dip in the cold but very revitalising sea..
After tea we went down to another cove which was on our left and just as close, we sat by the water and had a cup of tea and Snickers bar whilst the sun was setting.
When we walked back to the tent we came across some more deer just walking around our site and were not at all bothered by our presence.
We got chatting to another cycling couple and it came about that I had contacted them to stop at their house as we went through Nelson as a Warmshowers host. They were a really nice couple and said it was a shame that they were not around to host us as they were on their own trip.
How mental is that, in all the places in the whole of Canada two people I knew about and the female Tour Divide winner are on this little island that is about five miles from end to end. Crazy, crazy day!
We have decided to stay on the island for three days before we head to Vancouver on the 20th. We are going to spend our time exploring by bike and foot and taking lots of swims in the clear blue sea.
This morning we had a lay in, about 0900, the cycling group were also getting out of their tents at a similar time. Ian a member of the group came and introduced himself and we got chatting about his experience in Scotland meeting a half brother for the first time. He is a really cool interesting guy and knows a lot of the areas we cycled through. He is passionate about cycling and he has a group that have some stickers to put on our bike. We made our coffee and made a plan to ride to the store/cafe get breakfast and some stuff for lunch and head to East Point, the lighthouse point where there is a good chance of seeing sea lions and whales. As we were making coffee at the tent an eagle was circling above our heads.
When we arrived at the store most of the cycling group were also gathering there for breakfast too. It it such a cool group. And everyone is free to do what they want, they split up into smaller groups and go off in different directions to do different things. Some just taking advantage of the beautiful camp spot and stay there all day taking in the sun rays and the gorgeous views. Kelton told us that Meaghan, the Tour Divide winner was going to read some of her book and do a Q&A session in our camp by the sea at 2000 later that day. That is something we did not want to miss.
The store is also a restaurant from Fridays to Sunday. For Rachael’s birthday I booked us a table for tomorrow evening.
The ride to the lighthouse from the cafe is ten mile as you have to ride to the opposite end to pick up a road to go down the other side of the island and took about forty minutes. We parked our bike up with some others from the cycling group and walked down to the shore. It instantly blew your mind! The vast blue sea, the white building standing out on the grassy hill. There were only a handful of people around but you feel like you are the only person there as everyone finds their own space to try and spot a whale.
We made our way to a bench and sat there for a while eating blueberries and sugar snap peas. We spotted seals and sea lions. A guy that spends a lot of time there had to point out to us the massive snow covered mountain in the distance as we were so concerned with whale watching. Once you see the mountain your eyes are drawn to it time and time again in between monitoring the sea for whales. I was told but I can’t remember the name of it. I will do some research when I get back home and find out.
We found a nice place to sit and rest for the afternoon, in the shade of a pear tree. Rachael read her book and I had a little nap. Every now and then I would open my eyes and think how lucky I am to be here in this place looking at. The vast sea, the mountains, the trees and to be sharing this with Rachael was a precious moment.
At about 1600 once the tide had come in quite a bit we decided to head back to the store for refreshments and supplies for tea. We got another sticker for the bike to show where we had been.
We headed back to camp and put our purchases away before heading down to the cove for a swim/wash. Before we left Meaghan came down to dip her feet in and we spent about 30 minutes chatting with her about her lifestyle and where she lives and what she gets up to in her spare time. She is a really cool down to earth person and we were looking forward to her reading even more. When we were dry we headed back to the tent to make tea. Ian came up and as promised he gave us some cool stickers for the bike. I found a place for them straight away. After we had done all that it was nearly 2000 so we were getting ready to head to the group for the book reading.
It was the perfect location to listen to Meaghan about her cycling journey. We were in a secluded part of a tiny island on a camp next to the sea surrounded by the coolest humans in a coolest group. It was so surreal it blew my mind. She has two books out and they will definitely be worth a read. After the reading by Meagan there was a fun prize draw and Rachael won a cool Salsa cap. We said our thank you’s to Ian and Kelton just incase we did not see them before they left.
We went to bed after saying goodbye to some of the group. We were awoken by the brightest flash of light and thunder that made the group shake. A storm had moved in and it was right above the island. The lightening was so bright that it took a few moments after for your eyes to adjust. There was no wind, just loud thunder and lightning that would pierce through your eyelids with your eyes closed. It is strange how you feel cosy and safe inside your fabric tent though.
When we woke up in the morning we did a bit of drying out and airing of gear that had been left out. We moved the tent to the side to dry out the ground sheet.
After that we went for a walk up onto the hill that make up the sides of the cove.
We had lunch and then decided to make our way to the store, park the bike and go up to Warburton Pike that has views across the islands and there are wild goats. Instead of following the gravel road, the digital map I had it showed a footpath.
We thought that would be more interesting, but it went into the woods where there were hundreds of fallen trees. We tried to find the path but it was useless. Time was running out as we had to head back to the store as we were booked into the restaurant for a meal for Rachael’s birthday. It was pizza night, the owner was from Italy everything he made was authentic and delicious. We finished with a tiramisu which was fantastic.
We rode back to the site at about 2000, it was cool so it made for a relaxing lovely way to finish the evening. We brushed our teeth and got tucked up in our sleeping bags, Rachael reading her book and I watched some video I had downloaded when we had a signal.
Maybe tomorrow we might try again to see the wild goats up at Warbuton bike.
The next day we got up and had another lazy morning with the plan to take the gravel road up to Warburton Pike to see the view and the wild goats. It was only about 5km but the gravel road just seemed to go up and on forever.
The views were worth it, but we could not spend a lot of time up there as it looked like some rain was moving in across the islands.
We went to bed early as we had a 0400 start to get our ferry to Vancouver there were later ones but we had a thirty mile bike ride at the other end to get downtown to our hotel. So a bit of early morning nighttime riding was undertaken. I like riding in the darkness. Things just seem different and you seem to have more energy for some strange reason. We saw the eyes of all the deers reflected back at us through the trees.
The sea was covered with a mist which was certainly different to the views we had getting to the islands, but they were just as beautiful.
We made it to Vancouver and did the compulsory selfie.
Whilst Rachael had a shower I walked around to two bike shops just around the corner from the hotel and managed to get hold of three cardboard bike boxes, so that was a job done.
Links to friends met on the trip.
Keltons instagram
https://www.instagram.com/sir.bikes.alot?igsh=aXlid3RtaGRqa2xp
Van Islsnd instagram
https://www.instagram.com/vanislandbikepackcollective?igsh=cGI4bXJ2aWNoZzJ4
Van Island web
https://www.vanislandbikepack.com
Ross Island Bikepackers (Ian)
https://www.instagram.com/rosslandbikepackers?igsh=MWNzYmx0eGl6MHRldw==
Chris
https://www.instagram.com/christofer.edwards?igsh=emIwMmNtaDI3bXJ0